Joseph
Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce tribe (sometimes referred to as Joseph the Younger) was born in 1840. His given name was Hin-mah-too-yah-lat-kekt ("Thunder Rolling Down the Mountain”), so let’s just be glad they decided to use the Christian name that his father accepted when he was baptized at the Lapwai mission in 1838. In the summer months, Chief Joseph and his band lived in the Wallowa Lake region, grazing their horses on bunchgrass and catching salmon in tripod-supported traps called “wallowa”. In the fall they would move down to the lower elevations of the Snake River country. In 1877, Joseph and his band were ordered to leave the Wallowa country to relocate to a small reservation in Idaho. Chief Joseph and his followers lead the US Cavalry on a three-month, 1000-mile chase across parts of Oregon, Idaho, Washington, and Montana, finally being surrounded and captured about 40 miles from the Canadian border. In a speech at the surrender, Chief Joseph said “Hear me, my chiefs, my heart is sick and sad. From where the Sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.” They were sent to a barren reservation in Indian Territory (later Oklahoma), until 1885 when Chief Joseph and the few remaining members of his tribe were allowed to move to a reservation in Washington State. Despite two trips to Washington, D.C. to plead with President Theodore Roosevelt, Chief Joseph would never return to his ancestral home.
Well, enough of the doom and gloom. Incorporated in 1887, Joseph remains a vibrant little town, and despite being small, seems to have a lot going on. There are three bronze foundries in the area, and a number of world-class bronze artists in town. A civic renovation project completed a couple years ago included several large bronze pieces displayed along the main street.
I had lunch at a little cafe with outdoor seating called the Embers, where I managed to secure the last remaining table under one of the large shade umbrellas. This was a necessity in the 96-degree heat. Still, it was fairly pleasant, and a good vantage point to people-watch. I had a ham and havarti sandwich on rye which was pretty tasty, though it was so much ham I couldn’t fit the thing in my mouth.
Island City
I left Joseph and continued along the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. The Scenic Byway seems to end around a town called Island City, which is not far from La Grande. The area was settled in 1872, and the town incorporated on February 3, 1904. Allegedly the town is situated on an “island” in the Grand Ronde River, but let me assure you that this is all lies. This town sits in the middle of a dry, hot, semi-desert valley and anyone referring to it as an island is selling something.
When I reached the outskirts of La Grande, I was back on I-84 for the long trek home. After refueling in Pendleton, my next stop was on the highway near Boardman, to find out what the deal was with all those trees.
Hells Canyon Overlook